We’ve
moved into the post-everything age: a post-modern, post-colonial, post-racial,
post-humanist, post-pubescent age. Me? I’m post-intellectual. If
intellectualism is all about smart people knowing everything about everything
and always talking and thinking about all of it, I’m all about knowing nothing
about anything, and never thinking about any of it.
These
thoughts stroll leisurely through my mind, as I roll out of bed. They then slam
the door on the way out as I feel the piercing buzz of last night’s hangover. I
look to my dirty window, layers of grime and dead insects caked up over years
of this place being inhabited solely by alcoholics and other wastes of oxygen,
writers and artists all trying to re-enact Hemingway without the shotgun
finish.
Outside
the window is Tangiers, a city well past its prime, architecture largely
unchanged for hundreds of years, the whole place straining at its ropes,
buildings beginning to crumble, streets and alleyways narrow and
claustrophobic, people routed around, rats in a maze. It’s a city of tourists
and expats, where all the real people hide themselves away, oppressive
sub-tropical air, thick with the broad unease of a future lost to the mythic
past.
Bars
and nightclubs fizzle and burn against all the old architecture and older
culture, stars in a tar black sky, places where the booze flows and people are
as liberated as in any global city. It’s a tense liberation though, a malaise
hanging about in furtive glances, drinks poured carefully, voices all a little
too low or a little too loud. I make my money off these places, tourists shown
around to a bit of the city’s “real” nightlife, every item on the itinerary
premeditated by money slipped across sticky bar tops.
I’m
good at this job - I have the basic understanding of how to herd a group of
drunks such that no one gets lost, plus the global tourists like getting led
around by an American ex-patriot. Everyone’s read Hemingway, or at least
everyone who chooses to come to this shit hole.
Eventually,
realizing it’s almost three o’clock in the afternoon, and I’ve now managed to
waste a good part of my day rotting in bed and drinking, I pick up a t-shirt
off the floor, pull it over my head, and start downstairs. I live right above a
bar, which can be useful, given my profession.
I sit
down on a barstool, and the bartender ambles over to me. He doesn’t even need
to ask what I’m having because, the way my nights usually go.
“You
look like shit.”
“Thanks
man, that’s always good to hear.”
“You
know me.” I drink down the water and my head swims, that waking dream in whence
you feel like if you don’t figure out where you are soon, you’re going to up
and float away. Like that waking dream, with the addition of a piercing
headache.
I
stumble out of the bar into the afternoon light. We’re not far from the sea
here, and I have a good view of the water sparkling in a warm blue, stark
contrast to Tangiers’ white and tan architecture. I appreciate the heat and sun
for a few moments, before the simple pleasure of the beautiful weather turns
into a piercing headache. A few doors down from my place is a kebab shop, from
which I get my breakfast/lunch/it may actually be now late enough to call this
dinner.
I
stroll down to the beach, sit at water’s edge, take off my sandals, and let the
waves lick at my toes. It’s warm and comforting. Clean. I lay my head down in
the sand, feel myself sink a few inches. I stare up at the sapphire sky, feel
the warmth of the summer burrow deep inside me and threaten to take another few
waking hours.
As the
sun sinks low in the sky, I find myself on my tour route a little early, it
being an hour still till I need to meet tonight’s shambling horde. I wander
into a nightclub called “The Bittersweet Life,” or something approximating
that, printed in French in a curling font, colonial ghosts mixed into the
mortar.
The
furniture, the wallpaper, even the carpet, it’s all luscious and beautifully
old, out of a 1950s Hollywood film, right when color was new and still thought
of as something luxurious, to be revered. She stands on the stage and croons
into a microphone in Spanish. This place is a contradiction of nations, a Mexican
singer in a French club in a Moroccan city. She’s not much different than me,
lost in this world but for her passport, transience as an excuse against the
static rigidity of waking life. She was one of the first people I met when I
moved here. She’s beautiful, tanned and tall, long dark hair and delicate
cheekbones, hazel eyes reaching deep into the dark heart of my memories, some
girl I left behind when I got bored of wherever I was living way back when.
She
smiles at me, but goes on singing. I’ll bring whoever’s signed up for tonight’s
bullshit back here later, but I like to hear her when its just me and a few
locals, in before the tourists show up. It feels like it means something that
it never does when the walls are quivering and the carpet is crawling with the
multitude of drinks and excess of people.
I meet
my charge for the night at a little restaurant on a square dating from the
French occupation. The architecture is trying to be Paris because, afterall,
this is Tangiers, where everything living is masquerading as something long
dead. It’s the usual collection of young couples looking for something a little
more exciting than the standard tourist attractions. I notice a guy, maybe late
twenties, looks American, maybe German, standing off on his own at the edge of
the group.
I introduce myself to the crowd, hoping
my constant exhaustion doesn’t wear through. Or maybe not, maybe I want it
heard, maybe I want people to complain, maybe I want to get fired. It’s time to
move on again, time to find another city, another country. Another singer in
another nightclub to pine over. Another sea to stare at longingly. Another
squeaky bed, mouldy carpet, peeling wallpaper shit hole. Another life. Every
few years from now since then on to infinity or death, whichever comes first,
always another life.
As we
walk under the phosphorescent lights of the city, our faces and shadows cut at
weird angles, illuminated with a certain kind of privilege, I look to all the
young couples, the way they hang on each other, as their everythings, all in
ignorance of the sea and the distance, in utter rejection of the drift and
flow, the natural falling in and out of that which we dream of in terms like
love.
The
first bar of the night is an old school jazz joint. The man singing on the
stage is short of stature, and rather pale for a Moroccan, but there is a
throaty, confrontational intensity to his voice, such that it fills every nook
and cranny of the room, demanding attention. I give my speech about the place’s
imagined history, then go to the bar, and I’m poured a drink without hardly
asking. The whiskey burns its way down my throat, thermite through a cell door.
I swirl the glass slightly, watch the pale auburn liquid float about with a
heavy, hazy disregard for the night. I notice again the guy standing on his
own, and I wander over to him. Misery loves company, I suppose.
“Hey,
how’s your night going?” He makes a noise in my direction that a more
optimistic man might term a grunt. “You enjoying the tour?”
“Sure
man. Whatever.” He’s American, and clearly in no mood to talk. I give him
space.
Our
second stop of the night is the sort of trendy, hedonistic, hell hole you can
find in any city, beautiful young hipsters spouting armchair philosophy and
unsolicited advice, drinking drinks in colours I don’t know the names of. The
whole place is lit up with a throbbingly bright white light, obfuscating any
attempt at reason or thought. Here I drink a double and without even a moment
of hesitation or consideration order a second. Music plays at a volume I’m not
sure whether to term altogether too loud or too quiet, built as it is of an
endless baseline, with none of the requisite soprano contrast. The American is
standing a few feet away from me, pressed up against the bar, looking out
straight ahead, his eyes spotlights against the darkness, seeking out...
something. I order him a drink, and he turns to look at me.
His
eyes are furrowed in on themselves, and though he meets my gaze, I can tell the
light bouncing off his corneas isn’t making its way any deeper, he isn’t seeing
or hearing any of it, no, I can see reflected off the water’s surface images of
a life that could have been, bounced off his ear drums the sound of a woman’s
saccharine voice, the promise of children’s laughter.
“Hey
man, you doing okay?” He stares at me for a time that edges my mind into
recollection of 80s horror movies.
“No.
No, not really.”
“Well,
uh...” I’m a tour guide for fuck’s sake.
“I
wasn’t supposed to be alone tonight. I wasn’t supposed to be alone, period, I
guess. I wasn’t this morning.” I order him another drink, and he looks into the
glass of liquid just a little too clear, the harsh chemical smell of good vodka
drifting up from the glass and passing unfiltered into his head, with a near
imperceptible curl of his nose. He drinks it down anyway, and he cringes ever
so slightly. He’s not me, then. He’s not yet learned to embrace the pain in the
name of killing the hurt.
The
third stop is familiar already in my brain’s immediate consciousness, the woman
on stage needing no further introduction. As expected, the thick red carpet is
crawling like ants up my wavering vision. I push back the scene’s encroaching
sibilation with another drink or two, the burn of the whiskey now a slick honey
sliding reassuring down my throat.
For the
fourth time tonight, I notice my single charge. He’s staring longingly at the
girl on the stage, and I feel an edging annoyance at his internalized
presumption, being as it is a mirror onto my own dark night of the soul. Still,
though, the thought has a surprising lucidity in amongst the hazy, smoky air,
my drunken stumble, and that salted caramel voice playing loud like Nancy
Sinatra. I try to push it back into the recesses of long and oft forgotten self-knowledge.
I order
two drinks and bring one over to the man who’s name I still don’t know. He
stares at it for a long moment of eyes crashing down out the bottom of the
glass into the pit of his own misery, before looking up to me. He sips quickly,
and I can tell he doesn’t really know how to drink whiskey either. No, this is
the sort of man who hasn’t drunk anything but beer and wine since he graduated
college a decade and ten million miles ago.
“I
don’t think I caught your name?” He looks like he may not bother with my
hanging question, but in the end he decides to take my hook and run it out to
the fifty yard line.
“Jonathon.
Never Johnny. You know, I booked this tour for both of us? At the end of the
night, I was going to propose to her, find some pretty spot overlooking the
city and the ocean and... you know, somewhere romantic. And then I was going to
ask her to marry me. This morning, she found the ring in my bag. I came out of
the shower and she was just... looking at it, you know? Like she’d found... I
don’t know... drugs or something. She looked up at me and it was just like...
it was like she was scared. Her beautiful blue eyes... they were terrified.
Wouldn’t even talk to me. She just packed her clothes and left, without a word.
She’s ignored all my texts and emails and phone calls and... Jesus Christ.”
I order him another drink, and at the
bottom of the glass I see refracted in golden brown a life lived out long
towards old age, kids and a dog and a big suburban home, first words, first
steps, college, retirement, but in the end all I see is lying alone in a
hospital bed, computers quietly beeping out the death notice.
I’ve no response to this man I hardly
know, in the midst of what will likely be the great personal tragedy of his
life. I’ve built an existence on running away from pain, and in his eyes, the
shake in his hands, the tired tremor hovering just at the edge of his voice,
I’m reminded why. It’s hard to have your heart broken when you never love in a
distance longer than minutes.
In the midst of all this, with a tired
sort or irony that lives in the very atmosphere of places like this, the woman
on stage begins to croon out “My Baby Shot me Down,” and I decide it’s time to
move on to our last stop of the night. This hell hole is at serious risk of
being the death of at least one of us, going off the thousand yard stare
Jonathan is cutting through Sunny Bono’s eulogy to the left behind.
The final stop of the night, the easy
one, is a nightclub no different from a million others all the world over, a
hundred, two hundred young people blissed out on booze and sometimes pills,
listening to the simplest distillation of the noise of the time, holding on to
each other for fear that, should they let go, they’ll fall backwards and pitch
long into the void of non-existence and irrelevance. I bid a good night to the
group, for here I let them on their own and make my way off to whatever bar
will still let me in, to drown out the rest of the night with five drinks too
many.
Tonight though is different, as all
tonights are. Jonathan stares listlessly over the crowd, at the blissed ecstasy
of perfected group thought, at dozens of pretty women and handsome men, all
clinging desperately to one another, and I see reflected in him myself before I
stopped caring, when I still believed I could be a part of all this, I see it
and I want to help him because the worst fate you can wish upon another is that
they become you, for we all know our own shit is the worst.
I walk over to him and he stares
listlessly at me, the look of a dead man.
“You don’t want to be here man, not
now.” I tell him, not totally confident in that particular assertion.
“Where, then?”
“It’s a big world, plenty of options.”
“Most of them closed.”
“Says who?”
“I’m an American. We’re ill suited to
movement.”
“I figured it out.”
“Did you?”
Eventually
I get him out of the club. The sticky, sweaty air was starting to creep up on
me, threatening to suck me into the dancers like I still had a hope for that
kind of thoughtless joy. The salty, spicy Moroccan air is a welcome contrast,
signs of real life already beginning to stir in amongst the early morning -
bakers and butchers and all the rest of the mechanisations of this place,
seeping out of the woodwork in these few hours safe from the expat wastrels and
lost tourists. In this life I see hope, the simple beauty of normal, routine
existence, if not for me, then for Jonathan.
Now,
though, he just looks tired and dazed and a little drunk. Despite my best
attempts to the contrary, I’m already feeling a little sober, and I really wish
I wasn’t. I steer Jonathan down to the beach, hoping the lapping of the waves
can offer him the same freedom and release as it offers me.
In the
night, with the backlight of the city, the sea looks black and endless, but it
is onto that which we cannot see that we write hope. Jonathan takes his shoes
off with a surprising amount of care, socks too, and walks out a few yards,
until the water pushes and pulses at the bottom of his bermuda shorts. He
stretches his arms out and the image of Christ is more than subtle.
“I
could just keep walking, you know?” He sounds happy as he says it.
“You
could. I did.”
“And
you didn’t drown?”
“Every
night, only to awaken the next day my hurts all the stronger.”
“So
what do you suggest I do, then?”
“Go
home. Back to your job, back to your life.”
“What
about her?”
“What
about you?”
There
he stands for hours, arms now at his sides, watching the sea, me on the sands
behind him, trying to keep my eyes open, in the off chance I have to play
Hasselhoff, or try to, rather. The sun stretches and yawns up slowly above the
distant horizon, the sky illuminated in brilliant blood and orange and gold,
light reflecting off the water with a glittering wit, and behind us the city
languorously awakens, the sounds of people beginning another day in the endless
saga of repetition, day in, day out, on and on, that which we call life. As I
watch Jonathan, I consider I’ve had enough of Tangiers. I need another city,
another promise of a life worth holding on to. Maybe Sao Paulo or Cape Town, somewhere
far away, a new language, a new culture, new people and bars and restaurants, a
new job, a new girl in a new nightclub. As my mind ponders life in Brazil, I
hear the ringing of a phone. I check mine, and it’s silent. I look to Jonathan.
He takes his phone out of his pocket, hesitantly, looks at the screen.
“It’s
her.”
He lets
his hand come to rest by his hip, turns his eyes back towards the sun, it now
just over the line of the blue horizon, then, all at once, he raises his hand
behind his head, twists his body, then, in a violent flash of movement,
wrenches his arm forward, relaxing his grip as he does so.
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